Day 18 Gatlinburg, TN

Day 18: Distance hiked: Zero.  I walked around Gatlinburg all day, taking in all the stores, restaurants and activities.  Gatlinburg is a standing carnival of mini-golf, haunted houses, Ripley's Believe It or Not, restaurants, games, funhouses, and everything else a carnival entails (Dollywood is a close trolley ride away so there are even all the rides and roller coasters).  I ate lunch at Mellow Mushroom (a gourmet pizza place) and I can't say enough about it.  It was AWESOME!  I also went to a Ripley's Believe It or Not museum and it was THE OPPOSITE OF AWESOME; but oh well, had to try.  All in all, I had a great day of walking around, eating ice cream, and enjoying the sites (probably put in about 10 miles of walking today).  Also stopped in at Smoky Mountain brewery and sampled some of the Smoky Mountain's finest.  Good stuff.  Here are some pics of the town and my favorite places.








Day 13-17

Day 13: Distance hiked: 16 miles. Finally felt like I had my "trail legs" under me. Two weeks of pushing through agony, sweat, and exhaustion finally paid off. I crushed Day 13 and earned a new nickname from Papa Tats while hiking: Koozie Cruis'n (because I seem to set cruise control and keep the same pace regardless of the terrain). Day 13 was also the first day of "trail magic," where hikers receive a gift on the trail completely unexpected, usually in the form of food. In this case, someone had left two cases of soda and some cookies on a bench at one of the trail interchanges. So toward the end of my hike, there I was near the side of NC RT 143 eating cookies and drinking warm soda (and the fact that the case of soda had been baking in the sun for hours did not matter). It was heavenly. I took one soda for the road, later cooling it in a stream and having it with dinner. I ended that day at Brown Fork Shelter, my goal, and feeling great, went to sleep in the hammock.


Day 14: Distance hiked: 12.7 miles. An even better day. I got caught in a torrential downpour (it came on so fast that the entire Trail became a stream of water and mud within about two minutes and walking through it was more like wading up and down a river than hiking on a trail). I was absolutely drenched (my shoes are still wet four days later) but being that it was toward the end of my hike, I actually welcomed the free shower/free laundry experience (all save for my shoes) and was happy to test out my pack cover. I managed to keep my pack dry amidst the onslaught so it worked out well. I ended my hike at the "Fontana Hilton," a shelter located next to Fontana Dam that allows hikers the use of the visitor's center restrooms/showers. When I arrived at the Shelter, sopping wet, there were three guys there: White Ninja, Fire Cup, and Word Bringer. Fire Cup was grilling up some hot dogs he had bought in town and after one look at my weathered condition, offered me the rest of the package, saying he was full already. This made me happy as a clam so I went and took a hot shower (the rain shower wasn't all it was cracked up to be), bought a coke from the vistor's center vending machine, and grilled up some hot dogs. It could have been 4th of July by how happy I was to not eat my normal trail food. After dinner, the four of us built an enormous campfire and told stories of the trail. One of the stories was about Meandering Snail (the guy I let borrow my cellphone and in return received a grapefruit from his friend), who, I hadn't known at the time but now know, was one of the trail legends by this point. Everyone knew the guy because anyone who started the trail after March 1st had passed him at some point (the man is 350 lbs, walks only two miles a day, has been on the trail for over 8 weeks, and apparently sprawls out on the trail to take naps throughout the day). Half the people who've passed him have thought he was dead and would poke at him until he woke up and the other half were asked for use of their cellphone (he seems to keep falling behind schedule with all the naps on the trail and wants to let his friend know when he'll make the next rendezvous). Anyway, it's funny that that event had stuck out in my mind that day and that I wrote about it. Meandering Snail, walking, sleeping legend.





Day 15: Distance hiked: 16.7 miles. I started the day crossing Fontana Dam (no time for the dam tour!) and entered Smoky Mountain National Park, something I had been looking forward to. The park did not disappoint because within 10 minutes of entering, I spotted a bear about 30 yards away from me up on a ridge. It was a large black bear and it was swatting at a tree. It then stopped swatting, walked around a bit, and then stopped and looked directly at me as I was fumbling to get my camera. We looked at each other for a second or two and then it turned around and walked up the hill (I have video). In my head I was thinking with that tough guy attitude, "That's right, you walk away. You don't want a piece of this." Soon after seeing the bear I ran into Fire Cup and White Ninja (Word Bringer remained at the Fontana Shelter where he'd been for a week-- a ton of hilarious stories dealing with that), and I hiked with them on and off for the remainder of the day. We came across a neon orange Smoky Mountain salamander and made it to Spence Field Shelter. Smoky Mountain shelters are awesome--all stone buildings complete with fireplaces, skylights, double decker sleeping areas, and porches. That night I also witnessed my first argument between thru-hikers like myself and day-hikers, just out for the day. As more and more people showed up at the shelter, one of the day-hikers loudly announced that all thru-hikers needed to leave the shelter to make room for the day-hikers and their friends. One of the other thru-hikers (there were seven of us) called BS equally as loud (referencing the trail book that says that every shelter in the Smokies has at least 4 spots reserved for thru-hikers) and pretty much told the guy to shove his attitude up his ***. We'd make room for everyone that didn't want to sleep in the rain. Needless to say, after some tension, we resolved things in a peaceful manner and no one left the shelter that did not want to leave.








Day 16: Distance hiked: 13.5 miles. Cold, wet, and foggy. Hiked in full rain gear over the Smokies, careful not to slip on the very slick rocks as the rain beat us down. We made it to Derrick Knob Shelter 7 miles away and were so cold and wet that we had to change into dry clothes and climb into our sleeping bags to warm up again. After three hours of getting our core temperatures back up by cocooning in our sleeping bags, I asked the others if they wanted to go back out with me. White Ninja declined, citing after he left the Army he promised himself he'd never subject himself to cold, wet, hiking ever again (he had already broken the pronise that morning and was not going to do it again) and Fire Cup accepted, saying he was with me. So Fire Cup and I put our freezing wet clothes back on (that was tough) and set back out into the rain for another grueling 7 miles (approximately 4 hours), making it to Double Spring Gap Shelter, approximately 3 miles from Clingman's Dome, the highest point on the AT. During that hike I was hissed at and pursued by a wild chicken protecting a bunch of chicklets. I just kept walking but the thing kept following me (running at me, hissing, then running away). Fire Cup said he came across those foot marks in the trail and was wondering what could have possibly happened there. That night at Double Spring was the coldest night so far on the trail and I could barely sleep for the cold and the mice scampering by my feet.



Day 17: Distance hiked: 10.8 miles. Donned cold wet clothes at 6:30 AM to assault Clingman's Dome. Fire Cup and I both agreed that morning as eveyone talked about how cold it was that if we weren't sleeping, we may as well be hiking. We summitted Clingman's Dome at around 8 AM, temperature just above freezing with the wind howling (I have a good video), and made it to Newfound Gap on the Tennessee/North Carolina border at 12:30 PM. We then hitchhiked (a first for me) into Gatlinburg.  Some of us are starting to realize that the longer we are on the trail, the harder it is to hitchhike, haha (looking more and more homeless with the beards...). After seeing how cool Gatlinburg is and realizing I would probably come here on vacation one day, I've decided to stay another day (not the original plan but I'm feeling more and more confident about being able to do tons and tons of miles over the flatland parts). Gatlinburg is like Wisconsin Dells but in the mountains! Super cool. Day 17 also put me over the 200 mile mark. Almost 10% done!  So I'm staying in Gatlinburg today and then should be out of the Smokies the night after tomorrow.






Day 12 Recovery Day

Day 12: Distance hiked: Zero. I've been doing what I do on recovery days - eating lots of calories, doing laundry, attending to gear, and resupplying as best I can. In doing so, I compiled a few stats. So far in the first 11 days I hiked 137.1 miles over 17 mountains, 5 balds, 2 knobs, and up and out of 45 gaps. That's a ton of elevation change! And being that I hiked down 3000 ft yesterday to get to this Outdoors Center--you know what that means--it's 3300 ft up the other side tomorrow morning. Yay! Because on the Appalachian Trail, whatever comes down, must go back up! Miss you family and friends! Next up: Fontana Dam and the Great Smoky Mountains.

Day 8-11

Day 8: Distance hiked: 11.8 miles. After that nice recovery day, I left Dicks Creek Gap (to me the word gap is starting to mean a whole lot of downhill followed by a whole lot of uphill) and made excellent time to Muskrat Creek shelter, arriving around 2 pm. My knees seemed to be responding better and after leaving Georgia behind for good, my spirits could not have been higher. North Carolina ensured us it would be no picnic though, sending Pacman and I over an immediate 800 ft rise upon crossing the State line. All said and done, it was a great day -- I met back up with Leon and Le-dizzle again and we played cards, ate, and relaxed until nightfall. It was also the first night I left the rain tarp off my hammock so I could look at the moon and stars. It was the best I felt all trip and I was happy to be back on the trail.


Day 9: Distance hiked: 19.3 miles. I started the day with a rude awakening when my knees would not cooperate again. Searing knife-stabbing pain with every step -- uphill, downhill, or level. Not good. While gimping through the pain for a few miles, I decided that I was not going to allow my knees to win. Did my knees think they were unionized and could go on strike? Was the 12 mile work day too much for them? BS. So I decided to handle the situation the military way. If my knees wanted to give up over a 12 mile work day, then I was going to push them to do 17 + miles everyday until 12 miles became a dream vacation. Screw my knees and the pain. Because I'm not a Union, I'm not a democracy, and I'm not falling out on account of pain. This is the ******* Appalachian Trail! My body better get on board or die altogether. (I apologize for the rant but that's the kind of thinking that got me through the next few days). Anyway, so I did 19.3 miles that day, ending with Albert Mountain, the most technical vertical so far on the trail. Crazy and challenging way to end the long day. That hike also put me over 100 mile mark (first 100 down, some 2000 plus to go!). After setting up camp at Big Spring shelter, I settled into my hammock and remained for the night. 

Day 10: Distance hiked: 17.3 miles. I pushed myself through another exhausting day, ending with yet another 1000 ft climb up Siler Bald. Some of the day's highlights included splashing my head and face with ice cold water from the streams, eating a grapefruit that some guy gave me at a road crossing for letting his friend use my cell phone (he would not let me decline -- I must have looked pretty hungry and in the end was very grateful he insisted because the grapefruit was super refreshing), and making it to camp that night before the sunset.









Day 11: Distance hiked: 19.1 miles.  The hardest day to date. I pushed from Wine Springs campground to the Nantahala Outdoor Center in Wesser, NC (call it 20.1 miles, explanation below). Dramatic elevation changes throughout the day, finishing the day with a 3000 ft descent into town. Hello quads and feet. It rained throughout the night and in the morning as I packed up, so the whole morning was damp, cold, foggy, and my shoes were soaken wet. Not the most ideal conditions but I buried my head and kept trudging. When I finally reached the Outdoors Center 12 hours later, the sun was out (if setting) and the temperature difference 3000 ft from where I came from was noticeable. The Outdoors Center is awesome and I've decided to stay here another day. At ease, knees. I ran into two guys I know, Yoda and Ray, and met a few new people (Wrong Way, Yedie, and Peanut). All good guys. We ate dinner, drank beers (first beer of the trip), talked of the trail, and listened to live music at a restaurant/bar on the river. So now as to why I said the day was a 20.1 miler vice a 19.1 miler imagine this: you just hiked an exhausting 19.1 miles to the check-in counter at the lodge. The guy behind the counter then directs you to your room and he says: "You see hear, you go out those doors, over that bridge, across that parking lot, over the railroad tracks, up part of the Appalachian Trail on the other side there, take your first right on the side path, go up the hill until you hit the road, and then walk straight uphill on that road to the cabin at the very top of the hill." Great. And then imagine struggling all the way up there with your heavy, back breaking pack only to to find out he didn't include a key with the envelope he gave you...yeah, that's right.  But being at the Outdoors Center makes it all worth it.







Day 7 Recovery Day

Day 7: Distance hiked: Zero. This will be my last post for the next 5-6 days as I won't be hitting any towns. I'm spending my recovery day mailing more stuff home, doing laundry, eating a ton, and resting my knees. My knees better hold up.  I'm not even close to considering quitting. I can barely walk, my hands are black and blue from using my trekking poles as crutches, and I've lost 12 lbs in 6 days.  Another 60-70 miles before the next town?  Bring It. Some other stats: Probably 50% of the people I started with have already quit and two people that I know have been hospitilized: one 22 year old guy from poison ivy or poison oak all over his body and the other, a nice middle-aged lady who tripped and broke her face on a rock. The trail can be very unforgiving.  And with that, here are some more random pictures from the last few days. I'll write again in about six!









Day 4-6

Day 4: Distance hiked: 11.5 miles. I started off from Neel Gap with Leon and Le-dizzle. We made good time and arrived at the Low Gap shelter at 2:30, just before the rain. I quickly set up hammock and took a nap through the rain period. The log book from the shelter said a bear had wandered through camp the night before so expectations of a possible encounter were high. Unfortunately, not as much excitement for us. Crazy Beard broke out his banjo though (that's right, he carries a banjo if little else) and so I sat around and listened until I retired for the night.


Day 5: Distance hiked: 15.4 miles. I hiked all day by myself and despite my knees killing me on the downhills I still managed to do just over 15 miles. I arrived at Tray Montain shelter in time for sunset and admired the view briefly before eating two packages of pop tarts and calling it a night. Meeting Yoda and Pacman at Tray Shelter was a plus.


Day 6: Distance hiked: 11 miles. This day began with excrutiating pain as my knees tried to make it down Tray Montain. Somehow I found the will to keep going and met up with Pacman around mile 5 and finished another 6 miles with him to Dick Creek Gap. I came across some bear droppings during the first five miles but still no bear sighting while hiking (saw one coming into Amicaola). I'm currently at a Budget Inn in Haiwassee, Georgia and I just ate an huge all-you-can-eat buffet dinner at Daniel's Steakhouse. I'm taking a day off tomorrow to let my body/knees recover from the 70 mile hell I just put them through. Things I've learned: 1. I'll take uphill over downhill anyday. 2. Elevation matters--climbing up and down the equivalent of the Willis Tower four or five times a day wearing a 40 lb pack hurts. 3. I need to drop more pack weight no matter what the cost to creature comforts.




Day 1-3 add-on

Due to technical difficulties, my phone will not let me just edit my previous post. Since I can't sleep I wanted to add a few more things from my post Day 1-3. First, I want to thank my dad for driving me to the beginning. He was awesome and a total trooper. We saw a bear on the side of the road eating something as we drove in and I was thinking, "Yep, this is for real." We hiked the waterfall together which was great and then the next Day hiked up to Springer (possibly hiking in the wrong direction at first before backtracking up the mountain). It was great and I wouldn't want it any other way. Some other add-ins: Notable characters so far are Leon and Le-dizzle (brother and sister), Gunny (retired Marine gunnery Seargant who still curses like one), Honey and Mooner (who I mentioned previously), and Crazy Beard and the Connecticut trio (Crazy Beard hiked 10 miles with a twelve pack of beer in his pack, cooled it in a stream, and then got sloshed with his buddies at the campsite in the middle of nowhere. While everyone was amazed that this guy hiked with all that extra weight, it was a perfect opportunity for me to say, "hey, do you need a koozie?"